Voted one of the hot new tools from the 2002 Show Circuit by Wood Magazine! Miller Dowel has reintroduced peg construction with distinct advantages over standard dowel construction.Select the best-sized Miller Dowel and corresponding Miller Dowel Drill Bit for your application. Align and secure the wood pieces to be joined. (You may even choose to glue and set all components in place.) Drill the stepped pilot hole for the dowel.*Spread a small amount of glue on the ribbed sections of the dowel and insert it so that it drops approximately two-thirds its length. (It will self-center and align with the 2nd board even if you have not preglued or clamped the components.)Tap the dowel until fully inserted.Trim/sand any raised portion.*The depth drilled determines the depth of insertion. This not only allows users to countersink, tap flush, or leave raised, but also gives woodworkers the option to only use a portion of the dowel.If only 2 ½ sections of the drill bit is used, then only 2 ½ sections of the dowel will be inserted. This technique doubles the versatility of the product because it means that each size Miller Dowel is two sizes in one. It is an ideal feature when depth or thickness is restrictive, or for achieving a decorative effect.The Miller Dowel is perfect for use in a wide variety of wood joining and fastening applications, such as furniture, decks/docks, stairs and hand railings, cabinets, windows and doors, toys and more! Helps you avoid the problems associated with nails and screws, such as wood rot, metal corrosion and rust, nail pops, and splitting of the grain. Choose from 1x, 2x or NEW Mini-X Quick Drill kits, which include stepped drill bit and 50 Birch dowels. Dowels available in three sizes: 1x for boards up to 1" thick and 2x for boards up to 1-3/4" thick and NEW Mini-X for joining 1/2" stock. Drill bits fit 3/8" chuck. Additional packs of 25 dowels also available in birch, oak, cherry and walnut. Joining wood with wooden fasteners avoids the problems with nails and screws, such as Wood rot, of which even a minor amount compromises joint strength,1) Metal corrosion and rust2) Dangerous "Nail Pops" or "Shiners"3) Splitting of the grain.Peg Construction traditionally involves the difficult task of driving a pin dowel into a pilot hole that is just as tight at the top as it is at the bottom. Not only do you have to use a hammer from the very beginning, but it only gets tougher the deeper you get!The MILLER Dowel is inserted 75% by hand because of the relationship of the dowel shape to its pilot hole. You get better holding strength, and it is easier to tap in! Another advantage of having the dowel inserted so far through the top board is that the pilot hole does not have a chance to misalign. The hole for a traditional dowel must be perfectly matched up so the dowel can enter the second piece of wood without problems.The MILLER Dowel is already well into the second piece of wood before you even reach for your hammer! The MILLER Dowel has exceptional holding strength because the shoulder between the widest and second widest sections gets lodged in the top board. This produces a capping effect like the head on a screw or a nail.This dowel has excellent adhesion as glue remains all along the MILLER Dowel's length, settling under each shoulder, instead of being forced down to the bottom of the hole or sheared off at the top. Many woodworkers appreciate the decorative appearance of the pegged or "Shaker" look. Since our dowels can be stained prior to insertion, it simple to enhance the contrast for both light and dark woods. Why use plugs to cover countersunk screws? Using plugs involves drilling a pilot hole, screwing in a fastener, then gluing and inserting the plug. Why not just skip a step by using a MILLER Dowel? Plus, you won't worry about the plugs falling out and disappearing.Our fit remains tight. Unlike nails or screws, wooden dowels are naturally flexible and dampen vibration. There is no compression of the surrounding wood, which would loosen the fit.The original intent for our product was to be a safety fastener. Injuries and damages caused by exposed nail/screw heads are prevented by using MILLER Dowels.MILLER Dowels introduce a new joinery technique that can be used instead of difficult, expensive, and/or very time consuming methods like blind dowels, biscuits, pocket screws, or mortise and tenon.There is one timesaving assembly technique that is made possible by MILLER Dowels. A Chicago woodworker developed this as an alternative to the mortise and tenon joinery in his furniture design.In this method, pieces of wood to be joined are simply glued and aligned. Once cured, the glue eliminates the need for a brace.Pilot holes are then drilled, and the dowels can then be inserted for structural support.Not only does this method guarantee perfectly flush joinery, but it takes 25% of the time!
Organize your bulky parallel clamps once and for all. This specially designed rack holds all brands of parallel clamps - up to 12 in all - for easy and convenient storage. Pre-drilled holes are 16" on center for simple mounting to wall studs. Slotted holes are for attachment to the Pack Rack (21834, sold separately). Simply drill corresponding holes in the Pack Rack to attach the Parallel Clamp Rack to store parallel clamps up to 50" in length. Durable galvanized steel construction. 24" long.
Cut any pizza with ease-a must-have for pizza lovers! Robust, well-balanced hardware is 3X the weight of competing cutters and features a sharp 4'' diameter stainless steel blade. Just add your own custom handle (not included) to top it to your taste. Kit includes a 5/16'' threaded insert that lets you attach the handle or remove it for dishwasher cleaning. A 7/16'' drill bit is required for soft woods or a 1/2'' drill bit for hardwoods. Patent pending. Also available in brass or chrome. See our complete line of turning stock to turn the handle for your pizza cutter. Methods to consider for installing the threaded insert: Use a 5/16'' bolt and double nuts on a drill press. Cut the head off a 5/16'' bolt and chuck it in a drill press. Then thread on two nuts and the insert so that it is flush with the end of the bolt. Tighten the two nuts on the insert so it won't spin on the bolt. After the pilot hole is drilled in the stock, clamp your stock with a handscrew or a drill press vise and manually turn the drill press chuck to drive the insert into the stock. DO NOT TURN ON THE DRILL PRESS. The drill press will keep the insert square to the stock as it is threaded in. We also recommend using beeswax, screw lube, or even soap to lubricate the threads on the insert. This process can also be done on a lathe using a three jaw chuck in the tailstock to manually feed the insert into the stock. Finally, if you're using acrylics for your handle, we have found that heating the insert before installing it makes it go in like a hot knife in butter.
Finding an effective jig or fixture for a woodworking operation can be as elusive and time-consuming as designing a great piece of furniture, a sailboat, or a ukulele. It takes solid woodworking knowledge and some problem-solving skills, with a good dose of inspiration thrown in. Even a moderately complex setup can pose numerous choices: What tool or machine is best for the operation? Should the jig move the wood over the machine or guide the machine past the wood? How does the workpiece need to be referenced and clamped? Should the jig be adjustable? Most of the woodworkers I’ve met delight in solving challenging jigging problems. But tackling these problems requires a basic understanding of jig function and design. This book will teach you how to make these time saving devices and help improve everything you build in your shop. 272 pages. Contents: Section 1: Function and Design Why Use Jigs? The Functional Approach Customizing Jigs Section 2: Materials and Hardware Selecting Materials High-Friction Materials Fasteners Tracks & Guide Bars Other Jig Hardware Section 3: Tools and Techniques Jig-Building Tools Joinery Gluing Up Finishing Section 4: Marking and Setup Jigs Marking Gauges Layout Jigs Templates Machine Setup Section 5: Fences and Guides Parallel Fences Auxiliary Fences Short Fences Angled Fences Curved Fences Dowel Guides Section 6: Sliding and Pivoting Jigs Miter Slot Guided Miter Gauge Jigs Fence Guided Table Guided Pivoting Jigs Section 7: Jig Tables Tilt Tables Extension Tables Power Tool Tables Section 8: Fences and Guides Router Jigs Router Bases Hand Tool Guides Section 9: Templates Part-shaping Joinery Drilling Sawing and Sanding Section 10: Stops and Indexes End Stops Travel Stops Index Devices Section 11: Clamping and Alignment Alignment Devices Simple Clamps Production Clamps Section 12: Fixtures Part Holding Assembly Fixtures Bending and Lamination Section 13: Safety Devices Hold-Downs Blade & Cutter Guards Section 14: Dust Control for Jigs Machine Dust Collection Portable Power Tool Pickups