The customary way of storing pipe clamps in a jumble in the corner is certainly inexpensive, but it can be equally irritating. Trying to untangle one clamp from the rest is a chore that can result in the whole pile crashing to the floor. With the Rockler HD Clamp Rack, you can say goodbye to those hassles. This rack features stepped slots that accepts both pipe clamps and parallel clamps, and keeps them organized in two neat rows. Made of sturdy, 12 guage steel, it can support a full rack of clamps up to 60'' long. The footprint is very compact, saving you both wall space and floor space. Accepts 12 clamps total (6 on each side), each up to 60'' longEach slot can accept either a pipe clamp or a parallel clampFits majority of pipe and parallel clamps on the marketHeavy-duty design is ideal for longer clampsMade of sturdy 12 guage galvanized steelTwo-piece design provides support to eliminate saggingNarrow, space-saving footprintMounting hardware not included. We recommend using 3/8'' x 1.5'' long lag bolts (minimum)
This jig allows you to rip thin strips on the left side of the blade, eliminating the danger of pushing narrow strips between the saw and fence. Since the strip is not trapped between the blade and fence, there is also less risk of binding and kickback. It's simple to use; a single knob locks the jig into the miter track and locks your setting at the same time. Ball bearing guide keeps your workpiece firmly against the fence for perfect repeatability. Use the graduated scale to fine-tune for extremely thin strips. Note: Ripping thin strips requires the use of a zero-clearance insert, sold separately.The perfect tool for edging, inlay, bent laminations and more.Solid phenolic for durability.Low-profile miter track clamp locks in at any point along the miter track.Also works great on the bandsaw as a single-point fence for cutting curved slats in multiples.Adjusts from 1-3/8" away from your miter track to 5-11/16" away from your miter track, enough for the thinnest ripsMeasures 5-1/4"W x 8"L.The jig is stationary, while the fence is moved for each cut.Fits 3/4" W x 3/8" D Miter Tracks
Cut any pizza with ease-a must-have for pizza lovers! Robust, well-balanced hardware is 3X the weight of competing cutters and features a sharp 4'' diameter stainless steel blade. Just add your own custom handle (not included) to top it to your taste. Kit includes a 5/16'' threaded insert that lets you attach the handle or remove it for dishwasher cleaning. A 7/16'' drill bit is required for soft woods or a 1/2'' drill bit for hardwoods. Patent pending. Also available in brass or chrome. See our complete line of turning stock to turn the handle for your pizza cutter. Methods to consider for installing the threaded insert: Use a 5/16'' bolt and double nuts on a drill press. Cut the head off a 5/16'' bolt and chuck it in a drill press. Then thread on two nuts and the insert so that it is flush with the end of the bolt. Tighten the two nuts on the insert so it won't spin on the bolt. After the pilot hole is drilled in the stock, clamp your stock with a handscrew or a drill press vise and manually turn the drill press chuck to drive the insert into the stock. DO NOT TURN ON THE DRILL PRESS. The drill press will keep the insert square to the stock as it is threaded in. We also recommend using beeswax, screw lube, or even soap to lubricate the threads on the insert. This process can also be done on a lathe using a three jaw chuck in the tailstock to manually feed the insert into the stock. Finally, if you're using acrylics for your handle, we have found that heating the insert before installing it makes it go in like a hot knife in butter.
Voted one of the hot new tools from the 2002 Show Circuit by Wood Magazine! Miller Dowel has reintroduced peg construction with distinct advantages over standard dowel construction.Select the best-sized Miller Dowel and corresponding Miller Dowel Drill Bit for your application. Align and secure the wood pieces to be joined. (You may even choose to glue and set all components in place.) Drill the stepped pilot hole for the dowel.*Spread a small amount of glue on the ribbed sections of the dowel and insert it so that it drops approximately two-thirds its length. (It will self-center and align with the 2nd board even if you have not preglued or clamped the components.)Tap the dowel until fully inserted.Trim/sand any raised portion.*The depth drilled determines the depth of insertion. This not only allows users to countersink, tap flush, or leave raised, but also gives woodworkers the option to only use a portion of the dowel.If only 2 ½ sections of the drill bit is used, then only 2 ½ sections of the dowel will be inserted. This technique doubles the versatility of the product because it means that each size Miller Dowel is two sizes in one. It is an ideal feature when depth or thickness is restrictive, or for achieving a decorative effect.The Miller Dowel is perfect for use in a wide variety of wood joining and fastening applications, such as furniture, decks/docks, stairs and hand railings, cabinets, windows and doors, toys and more! Helps you avoid the problems associated with nails and screws, such as wood rot, metal corrosion and rust, nail pops, and splitting of the grain. Choose from 1x, 2x or NEW Mini-X Quick Drill kits, which include stepped drill bit and 50 Birch dowels. Dowels available in three sizes: 1x for boards up to 1" thick and 2x for boards up to 1-3/4" thick and NEW Mini-X for joining 1/2" stock. Drill bits fit 3/8" chuck. Additional packs of 25 dowels also available in birch, oak, cherry and walnut. Joining wood with wooden fasteners avoids the problems with nails and screws, such as Wood rot, of which even a minor amount compromises joint strength,1) Metal corrosion and rust2) Dangerous "Nail Pops" or "Shiners"3) Splitting of the grain.Peg Construction traditionally involves the difficult task of driving a pin dowel into a pilot hole that is just as tight at the top as it is at the bottom. Not only do you have to use a hammer from the very beginning, but it only gets tougher the deeper you get!The MILLER Dowel is inserted 75% by hand because of the relationship of the dowel shape to its pilot hole. You get better holding strength, and it is easier to tap in! Another advantage of having the dowel inserted so far through the top board is that the pilot hole does not have a chance to misalign. The hole for a traditional dowel must be perfectly matched up so the dowel can enter the second piece of wood without problems.The MILLER Dowel is already well into the second piece of wood before you even reach for your hammer! The MILLER Dowel has exceptional holding strength because the shoulder between the widest and second widest sections gets lodged in the top board. This produces a capping effect like the head on a screw or a nail.This dowel has excellent adhesion as glue remains all along the MILLER Dowel's length, settling under each shoulder, instead of being forced down to the bottom of the hole or sheared off at the top. Many woodworkers appreciate the decorative appearance of the pegged or "Shaker" look. Since our dowels can be stained prior to insertion, it simple to enhance the contrast for both light and dark woods. Why use plugs to cover countersunk screws? Using plugs involves drilling a pilot hole, screwing in a fastener, then gluing and inserting the plug. Why not just skip a step by using a MILLER Dowel? Plus, you won't worry about the plugs falling out and disappearing.Our fit remains tight. Unlike nails or screws, wooden dowels are naturally flexible and dampen vibration. There is no compression of the surrounding wood, which would loosen the fit.The original intent for our product was to be a safety fastener. Injuries and damages caused by exposed nail/screw heads are prevented by using MILLER Dowels.MILLER Dowels introduce a new joinery technique that can be used instead of difficult, expensive, and/or very time consuming methods like blind dowels, biscuits, pocket screws, or mortise and tenon.There is one timesaving assembly technique that is made possible by MILLER Dowels. A Chicago woodworker developed this as an alternative to the mortise and tenon joinery in his furniture design.In this method, pieces of wood to be joined are simply glued and aligned. Once cured, the glue eliminates the need for a brace.Pilot holes are then drilled, and the dowels can then be inserted for structural support.Not only does this method guarantee perfectly flush joinery, but it takes 25% of the time!