The foolproof finishing system! Just wipe on with a clean cloth and you're ensured of professional quality results without brush marks. Stains dry to the touch in minutes. If you want a darker color, apply another coat of stain in only 6 hours. Once you're satisfied with the color, apply General Finishes's satin gel topcoat finish. Special formula repels dust between coats. No sanding needed between coats and no unpleasant smell.Note:Coded as a flammable substance by the U.S. Department of Transportation. Can not be shipped by air or through the postal systemHow To Apply the Oil Base Gel StainApplying the gel stain is a simpler process than traditional stains that require sanding between coats. Before you apply your stain however you should prep your piece to ensure the stain covers correctly. Clean the surface you plan to stain Sand the surface. The suggested grit is 120-150 grit, you want to make sure that any existing finish that might be peeling is removed so the stain applies to the actual project surface. Apply the gel stain liberally with either a cotton cloth, natural bristle brush or a poly foam brush. (Be sure to test a small area of your project to make sure it is the finish you want and that the application method you've chosen is working well for you.) Wipe off the gel stain going with the grain using a clean dry cotton cloth or high quality paper towels. Let it dry, between coats give you project a chance to dry. Drying time varies based on the size and nature of your project as well as the environment it's located in. Normally drying time ranges from 6 to 12 hours. Repeat Steps 3-5 IF you want more coverage or you want a deeper/richer finish.Suggested TopcoatTopcoat can be used as a sealer over paints and stains or as a clean finish. If you want to use a top coat the recommended topcoat is Oil Based Arm-R-Seal Urethane Topcoat (sold separately).
Winner of a 2008 Golden Hammer Writing Award. Learn the art of box making from one of the foremost experts of the craft. Through Doug Stowe's decades of experience, you'll learn the basic techniques to get started, as well as more advanced ways to approach finely crafted boxes. Though it's not necessary to build the projects in this book in any particular order, they are arranged by the level of difficulty. As you grow in confidence working through the projects in this book, use your imagination and ask a few questions: What if this box were made in that wood? What if that joint were used on this box? What if the lid had more overhang? What if I made it larger, or smaller? The question "What if?" will challenge and engage you as a box maker for years of adventure. 160 pages. Contents: Introduction A Simple Lift-Lid Box Prepare the stock Mark and cut the box sides Fitting the box bottom Assembling the box Add keys to the corners Making a lift lid Final touches A Rustic Treasure Box Cut the parts to size Cut the corner joints Make and fit the bottom Assemble the box Add a lid Prepare for final assembly Attach the hinge A Sliding-Top Pencil Box Prepare the stock Cut the joints Rout a groove to house the bottom Make the bottom panel Groove the sides to accommodate the top Assemble the box Fit and shape the lid Install the lid stop A Stationery Box with Hidden Splines Prepare the stock Miter the corners Fit the raised panel Cut the hidden-spline joinery Prepare the inside before assembly Glue up the box Cut the lid loose from the base Make and assemble the base frame Add pulls to the box Install the tray supports and lid keeper strips Make the sliding tray Sanding, finish, and final assembly A Lap-Cornered Box Begin with book-matched stock Mark and cut the lap-corner joints Assemble the sides Make the lid and base Shape the lid and base Finish the box A Fold-Out Jewelry Box Prepare the stock Miter the sides Cut grooves to house the bottom panels Make the top panel Shape the sides Sand the interior Assemble the box Cut and install miter keys Cut the lid and levels apart Make the support arms Make the rear support Make the dividers Sand, finish, and assemble Hinge the lid Cut and install a lining A Jewelry Box with a Sliding Tray Prepare the stock Cut miters for the lid and base Fit panels in the bottom and lid Cut the top and bottom panels to fit Assemble the sides and lid Make the top panel Cut the slots and install the keys Rout a finger grip Making a sliding tray Make the dividers Ease hinge installation with a flipping story stick Install the hinges Final finishing steps A Dovetailed Box with a Wooden Hinge Cutting dovetails starts with tails Assemble the box Build a frame-and-panel base Make the lid Install the hinges Finishing touches Index About the Author: Doug Stowe has been a professional furniture and box maker since 1976. He is the author of numerous woodworking books including Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Box Making. Doug is a member of the New England Associaton of Woodworking Teachers.
This replacement Size #1 Head Assembly includes the head, tip and needle for very detailed spraying of light fluids with the Paasche VL Double Action Siphon Feed Airbrush (45420, sold separately). It has a .55mm tip opening and delivers a 1/64" to 1" spray pattern.Minimum $20 order for Paasche direct ship items.
Orange Oil is a powerful furniture cleaner and wood conditioner, popular for everything from routine furniture maintenance to antique restoration. It can be used on any finish and does a superb job of removing everyday dirt and dust. Often compared to lemon oil, which contains mineral spirits, Orange Oil differs in that it has a mineral oil base that is completely non-toxic. Orange Oil is all natural, non-combustible and made from real orange rinds. We love its fresh citrus scent. Sold by the pint.Technical Details:For cleaning and conditioning woodNon-toxic, all natural and non-combustibleSold by the pint