Conveniently sized to fit a shop apron, this handy DIY reference is packed with helpful tips and answers to all of your woodworking questions in an easy-to-read format. Everything is here, and easily accessible: information on wood, fasteners, joints, shop math, finishing, hand tools, power tools, shop set up, sharpening, safety, and much more. Details on the availability and use of various kinds of wood, hand and motorized tools, glues, wood fillers, and adhesives are provided along with pointers on sharpening edges, concocting effective solvents, and creating an efficient workspace. Charts, formulas, conversion tables, and geometry pointers are available to refresh the forgetful craftsman, and a comprehensive glossary offers rapid access to a wealth of information. Winner of the Golden Hammer Book Award. Paperback. 216 pages. About the Author: Charlie Self is an award-winning writer who has contributed a vast amount of work to the woodworking field. Charlie is the author of dozens of woodworking books, has written more than a thousand articles for woodworking magazines, and has edited and consulted for McGraw-Hill, Time-Life, and Popular Mechanics.
Robert Sorby Spiralling System allows you to create spirals on turned pieces. The Robert Sorby Spiralling System is a further development on the texturing tool and is used to create both left and right handed spirals with ease. It features an innovative rest with indexed reference positions, which enable the replication of the spirals. Differing pitch and twist profiles are made possible by altering the presentation angle of the cutter or by changing the cutter to a different one.
Your guide to selecting, using and maintaining a huge variety of handplanes plus plans for making a handful of your very own! The author breaks every plane down into six basic elements that are common to every plane, and demonstrates how they work. You'll also learn about planes from countries across the globe, including Japan and China. Includes over 200 beautiful photographs and sketches. 256 pages. Softcover.Table of Contents:IntroductionChapter 1: Smooth - What to Use When and WhyChapter 2: Sharp - Cutting Through the MystiqueChapter 3: Plane Anatomy - Understanding How a Plane FunctionsChapter 4: Bench Planes - The Classic TriumvirateChapter 5: Three More Planes - Strategies to Speed the WorkChapter 6: Styles of Planes - A Wealth of TraditionsChapter 7: Choosing Your First Planes - A Guide to a Suitable ToolkitChapter 8: Planes for Joinery - Tools and Techniques for Making and Fitting JointsChapter 9: Planes for Shaping Wood - Tools for Forming and Decorating Your ProjectsChapter 10: Getting Your Plane to Work - Tuning and TroubleshootingChapter 11: Sharpening - A Basic Skill that Leads to OthersChapter 12: Bench Work - Of Slaves, Dogs, Dead Men, and DonkeysChapter 13: Making & Using a Shooting Board - Getting at that Last Thousandth of an InchChapter 14: Making Your Own Planes - You Can Have Whatever You WantIndex
Voted one of the hot new tools from the 2002 Show Circuit by Wood Magazine! Miller Dowel has reintroduced peg construction with distinct advantages over standard dowel construction.Select the best-sized Miller Dowel and corresponding Miller Dowel Drill Bit for your application. Align and secure the wood pieces to be joined. (You may even choose to glue and set all components in place.) Drill the stepped pilot hole for the dowel.*Spread a small amount of glue on the ribbed sections of the dowel and insert it so that it drops approximately two-thirds its length. (It will self-center and align with the 2nd board even if you have not preglued or clamped the components.)Tap the dowel until fully inserted.Trim/sand any raised portion.*The depth drilled determines the depth of insertion. This not only allows users to countersink, tap flush, or leave raised, but also gives woodworkers the option to only use a portion of the dowel.If only 2 ½ sections of the drill bit is used, then only 2 ½ sections of the dowel will be inserted. This technique doubles the versatility of the product because it means that each size Miller Dowel is two sizes in one. It is an ideal feature when depth or thickness is restrictive, or for achieving a decorative effect.The Miller Dowel is perfect for use in a wide variety of wood joining and fastening applications, such as furniture, decks/docks, stairs and hand railings, cabinets, windows and doors, toys and more! Helps you avoid the problems associated with nails and screws, such as wood rot, metal corrosion and rust, nail pops, and splitting of the grain. Choose from 1x, 2x or NEW Mini-X Quick Drill kits, which include stepped drill bit and 50 Birch dowels. Dowels available in three sizes: 1x for boards up to 1" thick and 2x for boards up to 1-3/4" thick and NEW Mini-X for joining 1/2" stock. Drill bits fit 3/8" chuck. Additional packs of 25 dowels also available in birch, oak, cherry and walnut. Joining wood with wooden fasteners avoids the problems with nails and screws, such as Wood rot, of which even a minor amount compromises joint strength,1) Metal corrosion and rust2) Dangerous "Nail Pops" or "Shiners"3) Splitting of the grain.Peg Construction traditionally involves the difficult task of driving a pin dowel into a pilot hole that is just as tight at the top as it is at the bottom. Not only do you have to use a hammer from the very beginning, but it only gets tougher the deeper you get!The MILLER Dowel is inserted 75% by hand because of the relationship of the dowel shape to its pilot hole. You get better holding strength, and it is easier to tap in! Another advantage of having the dowel inserted so far through the top board is that the pilot hole does not have a chance to misalign. The hole for a traditional dowel must be perfectly matched up so the dowel can enter the second piece of wood without problems.The MILLER Dowel is already well into the second piece of wood before you even reach for your hammer! The MILLER Dowel has exceptional holding strength because the shoulder between the widest and second widest sections gets lodged in the top board. This produces a capping effect like the head on a screw or a nail.This dowel has excellent adhesion as glue remains all along the MILLER Dowel's length, settling under each shoulder, instead of being forced down to the bottom of the hole or sheared off at the top. Many woodworkers appreciate the decorative appearance of the pegged or "Shaker" look. Since our dowels can be stained prior to insertion, it simple to enhance the contrast for both light and dark woods. Why use plugs to cover countersunk screws? Using plugs involves drilling a pilot hole, screwing in a fastener, then gluing and inserting the plug. Why not just skip a step by using a MILLER Dowel? Plus, you won't worry about the plugs falling out and disappearing.Our fit remains tight. Unlike nails or screws, wooden dowels are naturally flexible and dampen vibration. There is no compression of the surrounding wood, which would loosen the fit.The original intent for our product was to be a safety fastener. Injuries and damages caused by exposed nail/screw heads are prevented by using MILLER Dowels.MILLER Dowels introduce a new joinery technique that can be used instead of difficult, expensive, and/or very time consuming methods like blind dowels, biscuits, pocket screws, or mortise and tenon.There is one timesaving assembly technique that is made possible by MILLER Dowels. A Chicago woodworker developed this as an alternative to the mortise and tenon joinery in his furniture design.In this method, pieces of wood to be joined are simply glued and aligned. Once cured, the glue eliminates the need for a brace.Pilot holes are then drilled, and the dowels can then be inserted for structural support.Not only does this method guarantee perfectly flush joinery, but it takes 25% of the time!