Commonly called "campaign hardware", this line of gorgeous recessed brass hardware serves both to beautify and to protect your furniture and surrounding items. The term "campaign hardware" derives from the 18th and 19th centuries, when English officers demanded high-quality, portable furniture while on military marches. The recessed hardware and brass corners allowed furniture to nestle together in a compact stack, and prevented scratches while stowed in the back of a bumpy horse-drawn wagon. Once unpacked and in the tent, however, the furniture served as a beautiful reminder of home.Technical Details:Solid brass recessed ring pull.Polished finish.Dimensions: 1-1/4"W x 1-1/2"H. Total depth: 7/16".Inside diameter of ring pull: 11/16".Projection from surface (if surface-mounted): approximately 1/8".Can be surface-mounted or mortised flush with the surface.Sold singly.Installation and Care Instructions:Measure and mark hole fixings with a pencil, preferably onto a strip of masking tape that will help to steady the drill.Drill a pilot hole as a lead for the wood screw.Remember, the included wood screws are made of brass so never overtighten or attempt to drive without a pilot hole, as this can cause them to break off in the wood.Occasional use of a damp cloth, and the use of quality wax polish is recommended to maintain the lustre.
Winner of a 2008 Golden Hammer Writing Award. Learn the art of box making from one of the foremost experts of the craft. Through Doug Stowe's decades of experience, you'll learn the basic techniques to get started, as well as more advanced ways to approach finely crafted boxes. Though it's not necessary to build the projects in this book in any particular order, they are arranged by the level of difficulty. As you grow in confidence working through the projects in this book, use your imagination and ask a few questions: What if this box were made in that wood? What if that joint were used on this box? What if the lid had more overhang? What if I made it larger, or smaller? The question "What if?" will challenge and engage you as a box maker for years of adventure. 160 pages. Contents: Introduction A Simple Lift-Lid Box Prepare the stock Mark and cut the box sides Fitting the box bottom Assembling the box Add keys to the corners Making a lift lid Final touches A Rustic Treasure Box Cut the parts to size Cut the corner joints Make and fit the bottom Assemble the box Add a lid Prepare for final assembly Attach the hinge A Sliding-Top Pencil Box Prepare the stock Cut the joints Rout a groove to house the bottom Make the bottom panel Groove the sides to accommodate the top Assemble the box Fit and shape the lid Install the lid stop A Stationery Box with Hidden Splines Prepare the stock Miter the corners Fit the raised panel Cut the hidden-spline joinery Prepare the inside before assembly Glue up the box Cut the lid loose from the base Make and assemble the base frame Add pulls to the box Install the tray supports and lid keeper strips Make the sliding tray Sanding, finish, and final assembly A Lap-Cornered Box Begin with book-matched stock Mark and cut the lap-corner joints Assemble the sides Make the lid and base Shape the lid and base Finish the box A Fold-Out Jewelry Box Prepare the stock Miter the sides Cut grooves to house the bottom panels Make the top panel Shape the sides Sand the interior Assemble the box Cut and install miter keys Cut the lid and levels apart Make the support arms Make the rear support Make the dividers Sand, finish, and assemble Hinge the lid Cut and install a lining A Jewelry Box with a Sliding Tray Prepare the stock Cut miters for the lid and base Fit panels in the bottom and lid Cut the top and bottom panels to fit Assemble the sides and lid Make the top panel Cut the slots and install the keys Rout a finger grip Making a sliding tray Make the dividers Ease hinge installation with a flipping story stick Install the hinges Final finishing steps A Dovetailed Box with a Wooden Hinge Cutting dovetails starts with tails Assemble the box Build a frame-and-panel base Make the lid Install the hinges Finishing touches Index About the Author: Doug Stowe has been a professional furniture and box maker since 1976. He is the author of numerous woodworking books including Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Box Making. Doug is a member of the New England Associaton of Woodworking Teachers.
When your work requires an extra-long guide rail more than 110'' long, one Center Channel Connector should be paired with the Outside Channel Connectors (57360, sold separately) to provide adequate support at the splice. The result is a guide rail long enough and strong enough to joint and rip even the longest boards of dimensional lumber. The modified dovetail profile on the connectors pulls the components into alignment for a secure, precise connection. For joining guide rails with a total length of less than 110'', a single pair of Outside Channel Connectors is adequate. Made in USA.
Stainless steel edge pull with 1 1/2" (38mm) projectionMaterial: 304 Stainless SteelFinish: Mirror (M)Supplied with stainless steel screws (3.1x20)